African woman in conservation

When climate change means ACTION

2009-02-06T11:48:00.001Z

It’s 2009. Famine, drought, water shortages – have been making the news in Kenya the last several weeks.

Last week I returned to my flat to be greeted by terrible murky brown water running through the taps. I was not amused!!! I summoned the caretaker to explain my rather unpleasant experience. His response, “Madam, I am sure you have heard that the dams have run dry. Akuna mvua”. No rain.

As a water expert and a person working on climate change related matters – surely I should have known better. Yes Kenya has been experiencing an unusually dry year, the headlines last month indicated that at least 10 million people in the country faced famine (I honestly think the number could be even higher).

Going back to the situation in my flat – I honestly counted myself lucky. A lot of people out there have no water running out of their taps at all. In some cases – they have no water in the rivers that provide them with water.

Several questions come to my mind – have governments in Africa really learnt to plan around droughts and other climatic impacts despite not having experienced these for the first time in 2009? Why are we never ready? Who informs who and who are we supposed to hold to account when such situations occur?

Our strategy on how we plan to adapt to the changing climate will certainly be critical for Africa as continent. Whether we like it or not – climate change is happening. I am also inclined to think that climate change will be bring some opportunities but at the same time it will result in serious impacts that we ought to be prepared for.

Now that preparedness is what we need to plan very well and start discussing with a higher level of seriousness than ever before.

Red river and gullies

2008-07-30T13:59:00.002+01:00

A recent visit I made to the Lake Bogoria River Basin in the Rift Valley region of Kenya brought something to the fore that is critical in the water resources management work that I do – land degradation.

Looking down from a bridge, what I saw was a red river – laden with so much silt it was phenomenal.

This basin is particularly interesting because it lies within two rather distinct zones – one semi-arid and another high rainfall. The lower zone towards the famous Lake Bogoria is the semi-arid zone with almost predominantly pastoral communities. The pressure of large herds of animals on this rather fragile area is highly visible. From the steep slopes towering parts of the area, one can see clearly over grazed hill slopes. Further down in the low lying area – the presence of gullies is highly indicative of originally good land – gone bad. As a result – rivers of red are at all not a surprise.

I suppose the million dollar (and indeed some of the ongoing projects in this part of the country cost that much) question is – how do you reverse such a trend? Food for thought.

A fork in the river….where the Mara River begins

2008-06-04T05:56:00.002+01:00

A few weeks ago I made a trip to the Mara River Basin, to discuss conservation issues with the local communities there. A local farmer asked me whether I had seen the point where the Mara River begins – I responded to him saying I actually had not. The basin is a phenomenal and challenging place at the same time. Two main rivers make up what eventually becomes the Mara – the Nyangores and Amala. The black line is the Amala, the red - the Nyangores and blue line Mara River.

What was exciting about this particular visit was that it’s the first time I had actually ventured to visit during the rainy season. The area was amazingly lush and the river laden with sediment – top soil washed away from the upper catchment areas. When I got to the confluence of the Nyangores and Amala – it finally dawned on me just how much sediment was in the river. Incredible and we are working on it….

I leave you with a picture of the sunrise - amazing and breathtaking colors - in Musoma on the shores of Lake Victoria.

More soooon.

Sense of direction - Rwenzori trekking route

2008-03-28T16:29:00.003Z

I thought I should provide a map of the trek so people can get a sense of how this trip went.

Check this out:

Day 4 – A lovely day with simply surprising and amazing views

2008-03-28T06:04:00.009Z

I think during the entire trip – this was the most sunny and clearest day. It was simply spectacular and scenic in every possible way. We decided as a team not to proceed to the next camp but to acclimatize at this elevation and spend the day walking around the Lake Bujuku area. I must say it was a day well spent.

The view of the lake sort of reminded me of a large sting ray with a tail – don’t you think?

We decided to explore the area and headed to the Irene Lakes located at 4,900 m. The walk was well worth it. Apart from the fantastic view of the lake, the view of Speke Glacier was just breath taking.

But what really blew my mind absolutely away was the view of the Green Lake. There in full glory, a lake borne in solid rock below the Speke Glacier. The guide had deliberately not mentioned this as we climbed and when I saw it….I honestly cannot quite express how I felt. It was simply phenomenal!!!!!! Here I give you Green Lake:

As we walked up the trail towards the Irene Lakes, running streams graced the mountain scenery – lovely. The taste of the water was simply refreshing and icy.

As one can imagine in this rocky terrain, other rather expected “species” do too grace the mountain scenery. I came across some stunning lichens growing on rocks and dead logs. Wow – what patterns and hues. Nature has its surprises at every bend.

After walking for nearly 5 hours – we finally arrived at the location of the Irene Lakes. Fantastic and just simply spectacular. At such a high elevation, these rather small lakes have no fish or living organisms in them. They are simply too cold. They receive their water from both rainfall and glacial input.

Right at the top we finally saw her - in her splendor and regal mode: Margherita Peak. I must say it was quite imposing and beckoning at the same time. This was the clearest I saw this peak until I got to it.

I just enjoyed this day immensely. To wrap it all up – the view of the sunset was surreal. The colours kept changing in quick succession I had to stop taking the pictures and just simply enjoy the moment.

Climbing higher and higher – Day 3

2008-03-10T08:37:00.027Z

Day 3

We left John Matte and headed to Bujuku Camp which was located approximately 3, 500m. We would climb to a higher elevation by nearly 600m. This was exciting. Just before we left early this morning – I just had to take some pictuires of the sunrise. It was so surreal that I don’t think pictures do it justice:

With the change in elevation, came the change in vegetation type too – absolutely amazing and intriguing. The initial walk on this day was through a rather boggy area - known as Bigo Bog. Fortunately there was a board walk we could walk over to avoid the wet and rather precarious boggy areas. Beware of Bigo Bog - very very muddy....

I was grateful for the company of my only other female companion – Susan – phew

As I have indicated in my earlier write up – the vegetation of this ecosystem is incredible. Here are some pictures of the wonderful scenes of the floral at just over 3,000m....

This is a young everlasting flower plant encassed in some web-like thing. It was just amazing.

Everlasting flowers.....in blooom...

The valleys in this area were also phenomenal. In some areas it was a combination of valley and bogs, while in another areas it was valley and Scenecio forests/mosses and liverworts . Incredible

Ohhh and the wonderful slow yet beautiful creature of the land:

As we neared Bujuku Camp – I sighted the amazing Stanley and Alexander Glaciers – just breathtaking.

Then we got to Bujuku Lake – first time I had encountered a high elevation lake in an African mountain. Here I give you Bujuku Lake – and the standalone rock in the lake is famously refered to as Noah’s ark. Don’t ask.

Though the camp was located not very far from the lake – the walk between the lake and camp was incredibly tiring as it was muddy and boggy. Not very nice if you are tired – but we made it to camp after more than 5 hours of walking. Tea was just in order…..

Syanzururu Expedition - When the journey…or rather trek began – Days 1 and 2

2008-03-05T04:36:00.004Z

Syanzururu means – Glacier in the local Lukonjo language spoken in the Kasese/Rwenzori area. And this was the name of our wonderful expedition - with a mission!!!!

The night before the start of this expedition – well it was an expedition as a matter of fact – I lay in bed thinking whether I was both mentally and physically ready for this trek. How was to judge anyhow? I had read and heard so much about the Rwenzori that I honestly had no way of being a self-judge. It suddenly dawned on me – as I lay there – this would be the last time I would have a comfortable, double bed with cosy pillows in 8 days!!!!! I put my devils to rest and told myself – I WAS READY!!!!

Day 1:

Bright and early – after, I must confess, a deep soak in the bath tub – we set out to meet with the rest of team from the Uganda Wildlife Authority and the guides from the Rwenzori Mountaineering Services (RMS) offices – this is a community based organization based in Kasese. These guys were simply our guardian angels….you will understand why later.

The guides - L-R - Josephat, Stephen, Anthony and Herbert

We were just ready to ROCK!!! Armed with walking sticks and renewed energy – here we are….

After a briefing of what the trip would be like, which camps we would stop at when etc. we set off at 10:00am on 20th February 2008. Onward marching solders……

Here we are…..

We reached the park entrance – for more briefing yet again – just before we entered the boundaries of the Rwenzori National Park. We were well informed not only by the wardens but also the amazing signage within the park.

I was by now mentally prepared for the zones I was being informed of – mountane forest area this, bamboo forest that….very ready now.

Then it all began – THE ASCENT!!!! Inially not very steeply, gentle walk, green broad-leaved vegetation all around. Lovely. Then we walked passed the wonderful Mubuku River – very rocky and refilled our water bottles – that were interestingly labeled – Rwenzori spring water..hahhahahhaa. NICE – we got the real deal. To be honest I cannot remember when I last drank water naturally provided – from the source!!!
Pretty natural things and medicinal plants….was the dose of sights we got as we walked on and the guides talked on….
Sausage Tree – Kigelia africana – known for its medicinal properties including its usefulness to men especially those suffering from ..mmmm…..well that’s what the guide whispered to me. I just smiled back.

Even more interesting things…..the one horned chameleon – now this was fascinating for me. I had never seen one before. Gorgeous creature!!!

Some interesting mushrooms too – I didn’t dare taste lest my trek ended right here.

And then we got to Mahoma River – that’s when the real ascent started…..wow…..and questions also began – So how long does this stretch go for? We will sight a glacier or two? How high will it be when we get to base camp?

I guess I was just trying to get my mind off the steepness of the trail – but what a climb. Up and up AND up……

After a nearly 5 hour trek – we sighted Nyabitaba Base Camp..Hallelujah!!!!!!

Hang on…not just the camp but the misty hill range of the mountain that changed from minute to minute…..and the magnificent Portal Peaks – Incredible!!!!!! Uhhh it was such a magical moment.

For failure of finding the right words to describe this – all I can say is that it was a bit like a theatrical dance – exciting at every turn – I mean how else can I describe it?

*******
Day 2

Had I forgotten what camping during the Girl Guide days was like? Ohhh after a night on a hard bed and a sleeping bag, I was just ready to go. But not without the very first breakfast at Nyabitaba Camp.

I took the last picture of the Portal peaks just before we left because Herbert one of the guides told me that in a few days time these rather high and challenging looking peaks will be dwarfed by the real things…hehhehehhee.

Herbert talking to team….

Beaming with renewed energy – Me - we started the trek for a second day.
We started yet another day of further ascent and I mean getting to higher elevation. This part of the trek was not as steep as the day before. We crossed the rather “giddy” Kurt Schafer Bridge which – last November – had suffered a freak of nature and was hit by a big log coming from upstream. The result – this bridge:

I survived this.

Though it was not incredibly warm, thirst was something we had to contend with. Steep hills translated to regular watering stops – from nature yet again:

More walking. I couldn’t but marvel at the amazing plant life along the way. I was lucky to be walking closely with Stephen, a rather knowledgeable and a man who new a fair amount of info on medicinal plants. Amazing.

For example – I was struck by the beauty of the flowers of this plant below. His response to its use even dazzled me more –

Locally known as “Lhukonzo” in the Lukonjo language – this plant (with the pretty orange flowers) is locally used to remove evil spirits.

This was locally known as a snake head – perhaps because it looked like one. It seemed not to have medicinal value – but hey not everything does.

More on the beautiful flora of this stunning landscape – here is a sneak preview:
Satyrium robusta in bloom

Pretty and nearly ready to eat – raspberry fruit in the wild

And accompanying raspberry flowers in bloom too

Some phenomenally pretty mushroom growing on a bark of a tree with some ferns

Everlasting flowers – Helichrysum guilemii – in bloom; these amazingly stunning flowers only open up fully in direct sunlight. They close at night or when it’s raining. Superb.

The sight of some kind of fern growing on trees is incredible. These fern seem to have some type of symbiotic relationship with the Heather trees.

Fern shoot in its initial life stages….coiled up – cute.

Then we walked through a rather exciting zone for me – the Bamboo zone. Breath taking. An incredibly lush and misty zone, it was simply beautiful – more so with the fern that either entwined it….or grew between the joints of the bamboo stems.

I certainly cannot ignore the Fauna…..and gorgeous looking Cha…..here we come….

The sighting of this chameleon was rather unusual in sense that it was actually sighted at elevation of over 3,000 masl – where most of these creatures are rarely found. This was, in a way indicative of the changes that were taking place within this rather delicate environment – it warming up.

With all this beauty – nature surely does have a way of popping up with surprises. After walking for slightly over an hour, we came to a rather interesting junction. An entire part of a hill had been defaced and a landslide had taken place, last November. I gather from those that had heard the noise when it happened – it was deafening and wild. It seems this is largest of its kind in Africa within a mountain range. I would not disagree as I have never seen anything like this to make any comparison. I stood on what seemed to be the remnant of a “sea of mud and rock”……with debris everywhere of brunches and uprooted massive trees. This must have been an event of a kind – check this out:

We climbed some more – in some places not so pleasant. Is a trek ever meant to be trouble-free? I doubt it. Then it would be no journey at all…hehhehhehehe

A rather muddy and not so good part of the trail.

We made it to John Matte camp in just less than 6 hours. This time we had reached elevation 3,900 meters above sea level. Yihooooooo.

Stunning sights...and sounds...well...the latter I cannot provide.

2008-03-03T11:22:00.004Z

Here are some shots I took in this amazing Ugandan range that is worth a go!!! More will be on the way. Enjoy -

View of the range early in the morning

View of the Speke Glacier from Bujuku Camp site

Giant Lobelia plant

The everlasting flowers growing in the amazing Rwenzori landscape

A high-altitude stream flowing from a glacial point near Irene Lakes at 4,900m

Scaling Margherita Peak at 5,109 meters above sea level on Rwenzori- a view of the WORLD!!!

2008-03-03T05:07:00.004Z

I did it!!!! How I did it – I honestly don’t know. I certainly cannot claim to be the fittest in the world but I surely had to a pretty stable state of mind to do this. I have never been so mentally challenged on a hike. On 25th February 2008 and exactly 1:35 pm, clothed to the core, crampons, ropes, harness, gaiters and all - I stepped onto Margherita Peak.

This, my friends is Margherita Peak – parts of her bare ROCK!!!!

So here is ME – on the peak - freezing. Ooooops I forgot to stand with the Zambian flag….hehehhehe - here I am below:

Here I am proudly displaying my Zambian flag… just had to.

I decided to begin from the climax before delving into details of how every day went. In the coming days I will share with you some interesting insights into this wonderful, exciting and also challenging 8-day trek through the Rwenzori – Mountains of the Moon.

Watch this space…;-)

When GIANTS are challenged too - Rwenzori Mountain and Climate Change - and the imminent climb

2008-02-15T04:47:00.002Z

This is the beginning of an important journey for me. Finally I will be scaling the heights of the “Mountain of the Moon” - Rwenzori Mountain on the Ugandan side this coming week. The highest range in Africa – this mountain has had its fair share of effects and impacts from climate change. Some of these include glacial melt and recession, changes in rainfall patterns which have eventually had an effect on river flows from this rather important ecosystem.

Well – I will finally set eyes on this intriguing, exciting and perhaps threatened mountain with a team of professional climbers. As part of this trip, this part of the mountain will be designated as a Ramsar site – protected under the Convention on Wetlands. I will send pictures of the photo op at the TOP.

This is probably my last entry this month as I will be gone for nearly two weeks. However, what is very exciting for me is that I am probably the first Zambian woman to climb this mountain (will need to check the Zambian archives before I claim this honour….hehehheheheh), and I shall be carrying a Zambian flag to the top – a small one – so I could evidently show I was there. I am looking forward to some exciting photography and will keep a diary of the trip that I shall eventually share with the “world” in a few weeks time.

Soooooo Rwenzori here I COME!!!!!! Watch this SPACE…..

By the way....simple pleasures of life

2008-01-25T14:45:00.000Z

I was busy chatting with a community member a while ago when something caught my attention from the corner of my eye. I just couldn't resist. I think its important to enjoy and take a moment to take in the simple pleasures of life. I just thought I might share this with you......enjoy.

More sooon in Part 2 on climate change issues.

Part 1: Warmer, wetter, drier, cooler – Are we ready for this so called climate change?

2008-01-21T05:49:00.000Z

Its 21 days to the start of this New Year 2008 – I am afraid I was busy with other things, regardless – HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

I want to begin by saying it finally started raining after a long spell of dryness. Coming from the southern part of this continent – I am rather confused by the bi-modal rainfall in this part of Africa. They have the short rains and long rains. To be honest in the last year I have been here – the local people have equally been confused about the state of rainfall too. As I understand the two seasons have somehow merged. Well in simple terms – there is no clear distinction between the two seasons. By virtual of being close to the equator – the two rainy seasons in Kenya should be quite distinct. Last year parts of this country and Uganda flooded immensely leaving several people homeless. This rather erratic shift and change in rainfall patterns is as a result of climate change.

Interestingly not many people seem to be talking about how this will alter our way of life here in Africa. I would not want to say this subject should be left to the environmentalists alone. Climate change is already affecting different sectors of our existence notably agricultural, energy, water, development, health – to mention but a few. The water sector that I am more involved in has already been incredibly affected. Last year in November I gave a keynote paper at a conference in South Africa on Climate Change Adaptation with a case study from Lake Bogoria – a rift valley lake in Kenya.

I must say this one of the most amazing places I have seen in Africa. A saline lake – this site is a protected area under a convention called Ramsar (http://www.ramsar.org/) – to which countries like Kenya are members and commit to protect wetlands for the benefit of both people and nature. Below is a picture of the lake as soon from the northern view.

Lake Bogoria

Like other non-freshwater lakes within the rift valley – Lake Bogoria is dependent on freshwater inflow from the main River Waseges in order to have a good balance within its ecosystem to sustain the algae that the flamingoes depend on.

River Waseges flowing towards Lake Bogoria

Similarly the local communities upstream of this lake are also very dependent of this river for both domestic and agricultural purposes. One thing I should mention is that this river flows almost predominantly through a semi-arid area. This implies that during the peak of the dry season the flows in this river are pretty low. Low to the extent that sometimes the river stops flowing continuously into the lake for several weeks. The result of this has been dry riverbeds (see below) – which of course all things being equal no one would wish for this.

Dry river bed – tributary to River Waseges

In the upstream reaches intensive small scale irrigated agriculture (see below) is practiced and most if not all of these farmers depend on the River Waseges for irrigation.

Small scale irrigated agriculture in the upper Lake Bogoria catchment

In Eastern Africa reliance of communities on land for agriculture, rivers and other natural resources is very high. However, these resources are climate-sensitive and are likely to be affected severely. Under these circumstances of a changing environment – climate change brings yet another complexity.

Where do you draw the line? How much water should be left for the environment and how much should be used for agriculture and domestic purposes? What options are available to best manage the water resources so that we could adapt to the changes that are inevitable?

I will address these rather pertinent questions in detail in the next coming days particularly on how we have managed to try and strike a balance within this catchment area through engagement of local communities.

In the mean time – people and the environment need the rivers to keep flowing – because without this lifeline our very existence ceases to be what we know it.

“We never know the worth of water till the well is dry.” (~Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732)

Flowing stream

Pretty, natural things

2007-12-30T20:12:00.000Z

I have recently been on holiday – believe it or not – in two of my project sites. How ironic and funny. I spent 2 days at a friend’s farm where the Malewa River passes through the farm and flows into the Lake Naivasha – a spectacular sight!!! Below are some pictures showing some hippos having a good time in the river and the pelicans hanging out with them. Simply sublime. Acacia tree – sky view, also wonderfully intriguing.

Hippos in River Malewa

River Malewa

Pelicans swimming away in River Malewa

View of the sky through an Acacia tree

One of my photographs that took my breath away was the sunset in the Likipia Hill range – I was just so blown away by the colors and sun’s rays.

Amazing sunset view on Lake Naivasha – Likipia Hills in foreground

Two days later I went to Lake Nakuru to check out the flamingoes – heavenly. The birdlife in this lake is simply spectacular. I saw pelicans, cormorants, flamingoes, sacred ibis and the not so pretty Maribu stork….:-) Also saw some other wildlife including zebras – which are just gorgeous animals – check out mother and child below.

Flamingoes in Lake Naivasha

Maribu storks checking out each others feet

Zebra mother and child – Lake Nakuru National Park

A day later – I was in Lake Bogoria seeing yet more flamingoes. This is yet another of the rift valley lakes that is just simply beautiful. Graced by the Tugen Hill range its just a marvel to see. Another unexpected find on this trip was the blossoming of the desert rose – Adenium Obesum – which when in bloom is just incredibly beautiful – and very poisonous too. Check out the pictures below!!!!

The amazing desert rose – Adenium odesum – in bloom in Lake Bogoria area

Further adrift I took a drive up to the Tugen Hills to have a view of the rift valley from above – so to speak. On the way there – drove passed the Perkerra River Gorge which was one moment of wonder – beautiful. See picture below.

View of the Perkerra River Gorge near Tugen Hills

Driving up the Tugen Hills gives you the impression of being lifted into a space that is just beyond description. I was just sooo soooo BLOWN AWAY by the views.

Tugen Hill Range and view of the rift valley below the hills

In a way the experience was rather humbling really. Just how tiny and simple creatures we are. With that I leave you with these pictures showing "pretty, natural things" and enter the New Year rather refreshed I suppose.

To do all the "wild" walking – I adopted the ways of the local guides and bought a pair of the local shoes – made out of recycled tyres (see picture below). Not very comfortable but sure do take the dust. I did miss my timberland boots though…ohh those simple pleasures of good shoes hehehehehhehehe - Enjoy!!!!!!

My feet

Moving back to the motherland - mother Africa

2007-12-21T04:42:00.000Z

This year was the beginning of a journey of re-discovery that has turned out to be worth the while. I decided – after living in Europe for nearly 10 years – to move back to my mother continent – Africa.

When I was offered a position in Kenya, 10 months ago (February 2007), to coordinate water resources management projects in Eastern Africa, I did not butt an eye. Packed the bags and headed “home”. The arrival – baffling and intriguing. The work – exciting and challenging at the same time. The country – a marvel!!! The continent – all I can say is that I wouldn’t give it up for anything.

So to share this journey I have decided to share some pictures of some of the exciting and interesting places where I am doing water-related work. The people, the places, the dynamics and everything you could possibly imagine – this region has. By region I am making reference to the Eastern African region – which of course goes beyond Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. I must admit anyhow that as a southern African – I am biased. That part of the Africa is the centre of the universe….:-).

In the future I shall be sharing with you various experiences I have had and the work that we as a conservation organization are doing.

So until next time – kwaherini and have a blessed and wonderful festive season.

Wildebeests & Topi grazing in Maasai Mara Game Reserve

North view of Lake Bogoria

Another north view of Lake Bogoria

School kids in Simotwet near the Mara River

Flowing stream at Emsos - feeds into Lake Bogoria

Above and below are pictures of people and places I am working in. As photography is one of passions - I do enjoy capturing the moment in any place I find myself in. So ENJOY!!!

Flamingoes at Lake Bogoria - reddish colour signifies high silt level

Young boy near Lake Albert in Uganda

Wildebeests and Zebras taking the plunge in the Mara River during the migration